“I grew up on the beach and my dad was always into surfing and lifesaving. Obviously you want to do what your old man does. I just got more and more comfortable in progressively bigger waves. When I finished college I thought I would give it a go so I went to California to surf mavericks and10 years later I got the opportunity to do it full time.
Never in my wildest dreams did I think I was going to be paid to go surfing. It never seemed attainable, so when I signed with Hurley international it was a big deal as a kid from a small town in Africa. It was pretty rad. All the big surf brands have a team, they sponsor people and use their riders as a marketing tool. The best thing about it is that I have my own time. In this day and age is pretty special to be able to do whatever you want everyday. The worst thing is I have too much time and there is not much structure or routine so it can be hard to stay motivated.
It is amazing being out there with only a handful of people in the world, but it is dangerous and people do die. The feeling when you are out there is of facing your fears and facing death - it’s the highest form of adrenaline. It is also a pretty special feeling when you are drinking a beer in the bar after having surfed 100 foot waves.
I have been surfing since as long as I have memories so I cant imagine a life without surfing. My dad is 72 and he is still surfing, it is more of a lifestyle than a sport and I will always be a surfer. If i won the lottery I would probably still be doing the same thing.
There are people doing amazing things in the world for the environment and for underprivileged people that are way more inspiring than people that are going to just ride waves for a living. ”